When your kids grow up and live their own lives, you find yourself reminiscing about your own childhood; which brings me to these memories of Iraq.
My dad,a man not inclined to vacationing, had decided to take us to Iraq; he had lived there as a bachelor, and had worked as a chief engineer in Baghdad on projects such as the Baghdad museum and parliament building; his fair Croatian good looks as well as his knowledge of Arabic had garnered him affection and lifelong friendships. He loved Iraq. It was through these friends that we were able to visit an area of Iraq known as the Marsh Lands, a very remote and unique area in the South of Iraq, known since the beginning of times as the Garden of Eden.
People there lived on water; you could not access this area by road; you had to travel by canoe, the same long and slender canoes that were depicted in 5000 year-old cylinder seals, cutting through the reed here and there, passing by water buffaloes and staring at wild birds and fowl in the sky.
We slept in one of those reed houses (fighting off cockroaches at night) and one night were treated to a feast organized by the sheikh of the tribe. Sitting on rugs we enjoyed huge platters of a rice biryani, roasted wild ducks hunted that day, this stuffed potato dish, and masgouf , the famous Iraqi dish of grilled fish, eating all with bread (no utensils), from communal platters.
We met people who had the innocence and generosity one only encounters in those who live precarious lives of extreme poverty. One of the boys, Ali, wanted to show us his treasure: He produced a small dinged up transistor radio with a cassette player and soon, in the middle of the Marshes, hundreds of kilometers from Baghdad, we were listening to Rock’n'Roll music with some merry Marsh Arab boys.
Did we know at the time that their life and lifestyle were in mortal danger? That a few years later they would be decimated? It just did not seem possible that a people who lived such a primitive existence, so far from modern civilization, could be considered a threat to anyone.
OK. What about this Iraqi dish?
It consists of potatoes, cooked and mashed and stuffed with a minced meat (or bean) mixture, with tomatoes and onions.
INGREDIENTS:
- 2 pounds starchy potatoes
- 1 egg
- 1/4 cup of cornstarch or flour
- salt, white pepper
- oil for frying or olive oil or butter for baking
- extra flour if frying
Meat Filling:
- 1 large onion
- 1 pound ground beef
- spices: black pepper, cinnamon, ground coriander, pinch of cloves, nutmeg, paprika and cardamom
- 1 cup of peeled and diced tomatoes
- 1/4 cup of chopped parsley
- salt, to taste
- olive oil
Vegetable filling:
- 1 onion, chopped
- 1 can of black beans
- 1 cup of tomatoes, peeled and diced
- Spices: 2 garlic cloves, a few sprigs of parsley, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg.
- 2 Tablespoons of hot red pepper paste
METHOD:
- Boil and cook the potatoes; mash then blend with the egg, salt, pepper and cornstarch.
- Heat some oil and fry the onion till translucent; add the minced meat, spices and cook for 15 minutes until browned; add the tomatoes, cook 10 minutes longer, stir in the parsley. Set aside.
- Place in the palm of your hand about 1/4 cup of potato, flatten it and place on top of it a couple of teaspoons of meat or vegetable filling; enclose completely. (I used the globe molds to save time and effort)
- If frying, heat the oil to 375F and dip the potatoes in flour right before frying; if baking, brush with some olive oil or melted butter and bake for 15 minutes in a 375F oven. Serve hot, piled on a plate.
Recipe from The Complete Middle East Cookbook by Tess Mallos
If interested in the Marsh Arabs, check out Sir Wilfred Thesiger, a British explorer, who lived amongst them and wrote a book about it.
86 Comments
That was a touching post and what seems like a once in a lifetime experience. The potato looks absolutely delicious! I bet the texture is fantastic. Great post.
I grew up eating potato knishes, which is very similar to this. These pictures bring back so many memories. Great post!
I am really impressed, how do you get all that ideas?!?! So simple, and so great!
Thanks for sharing this great story and the pictures. Such an interesting journey with you. These look so tasty. I like how the potato has a crispy edge.
What a beautiful post! Those memories will always be with you. So sad those people were decimated…
This dish is wonderful and so appetizing!
Cheers,
Rosa
I think nothing more can be said then your cuisine Joumana is mouthwatering and innovative! Not to mention I love reading your stories!
BTW I made your makarona bel four this weekend – it was a big hit with my family! =)
hummmm your patato Globe looks delicious! =)
I love yours pictures!
XoXo Clém
I adore the idea of using potatoes to make the bowl…very special. Although the baked version is healthier, the fried one would be more interesting and delicicious.
Magnifique comme d’habitude.
Je note : c’est une recette que je ne connais pas du tout.
A bientôt.
Joumana, j’aime tellement ton blog, tu nous fais rêver à chacune de tes recettes, et à chaque récit de voyage. Les photos sont magnifiques…
Gros bisous.
I love the idea of potato moulds. I would definately go for vegetarian one.
Fascinating story and great pictures. The recipe sounds delicious, reminds me of stuffed potato croquettes which I make.
I really enjoyed reading this post and getting to know more about you…thank you for sharing! This potato dish looks delicious — the potato globes are gorgeous!
Dear Joumana – Your post on this wonderful idyllic village in Iraq with the amazing reed houses, the jaali work left me with a heavy heart. As a humanity it is such a pity we cannot live with each others differences.
I love the combination of batata and meat (always wonderful) and the globes are amazing.
Its good to be back to your blog after a week. I have missed your wonderful stories and eats
Ciao, Devaki @ weavethousandflavors
You are a lucky person to have had that experience. How amazing! I would even put up with the cockroaches. This food looks so good.
You are very lucky that you had the chance to meet those people and enlarge your horizons with all this knowledge. Unfortunately, apart from animals in extinction, we face also communities in extinction. This dish is as unique as the memories you have from those people.
Beautiful vitrual visit, thanks for sharing those awesome clicks…the dish sounds truly fantastic and yumm!
A very touching story Joumana. It makes me think of how grateful we should be for everything we have in our lives, and leave petty stuff behind. The food looks scrumptious as always
i love how you always include a little story behind your recipe. What a great education!
What an amazing, eye-opening experience that trip must have been for you!
The recipe sounds really interesting. I love the photos!
what a trip, what an experience, what a wonderful bunch of memories, and thanks for sharing, the potato recipe looks so delicious, I just cant wait to try it! cheers!
It’s a nice recipe in a very beautiful post! simply fascinating…
Ciao
great post, my hubby has been to iraq and he fell in love with the people..lovely recipe
that brings such great memories
sweetlife
A lovely post Joumana. Oh what we could learn from simplicity…I have all kinds of ideas for those Potato Globes. I think I’ll try your recipe first and then, play!!!
Thanks for sharing…
What a touching scenery, the death of these people make the story very melancholy, unfortunately children always bare the scars of war.You seem a very compassionate person Joumana, this dish that you have chosen, offers comfort, and satiates the soul.It is fluffy and soft. They look like a little presents on your plate, I take my hat off to you.
This is so sweet and genuine. The Iraqi potato dish is intriguing as well. But the story is so heartfelt and universal in theme, that I can’t help thinking back myself, and I have never been to Iraq. GREG
Great post and fantastic recipe. It sounds like such an adventure, but a sad ending. It is wonderful you keep not only the memories but the people alive when you recreate these foods for us to try and enjoy.
A heartfelt thanks,
Doc
What a sad ending for these kind, generous souls.
Magnificent dish. Very creative. Loved reading this post.
Cheers!
Joumana,
Wonderfully touching article and photos. It’s amazing how the basics of life like food can induce such deep memories and emotions. You portrayed such a different vision of what I had when thinking of Iraq.
Andy
such a great, heartfelt post. so vivid, i felt like i was right there! and the food looks awesome too
. i’ll have to try this recipe!
What an amazing looking dish and I cannot tell what I am most grateful for, the delicious recipe or the lovely backstory. I’ll settle for both, as this post was a treat to read.
I am on my way to visit Sir Wilfred Thesiger, I need to learn more about the poor fascinating people. How lucky you were to visit with them.
The potato dish looks delicious. I always get great recipes from you. Woman, you are amazing. I love your blog!
Pam
I loved reading more about your childhood and your family! It injects such a personal touch to your already awesome recipes. Potato globe..wow. I can actually even use that idea to stuff anything I want in that!
These potato burgers look huge ! I bet it makes one hell of a satisfying meal
looks yum!
The potatoes sound tasty, and the story was absolutely wonderful. Thank You!
Mimi
I really enjoyed reading your post of today, and pictures from a trip, too. And what an interesting recipe for potatoes – I bookmarked it, as I love those “bad” potatoes. Have a good night !
Ah tu es donc moitié Croate! Libanaise du côté maternel alors j’imagine…les souvenirs d’enfances sont toujours les plus précieux. Tes pomme de terre farcies sont vraiment très appétissantes, je ne connaissais pas cette version là.
What a wonderful experience to have as a youngster and shame about those killings. Did you learn any Croatian from your father? My parents are Croatian
It is insightful to know this dish has Iraqi origins/influence. I do like the combination of meat , tomatoes and onions. With the potato “cup”, must be tasting delicious.
magnifique recette je n’aurrai jamais pensé là faire de cette façon, chapeau, bisou joumana
Potato globe looks delicious with the stuffing..
What a beautiful post…thanks for sharing your memories. It’s a pleasure to read about them. The recipe is so simple, but at the same time so great..
A presto, Anna
What a postcard you’ve shared and Oh My, what the times have done to Iraq. Sadly, the common folk always pay the price.
I don’t think I’ve ever heard of an Iraqi dish and this one is definitely unique.
Awww….this is such a lovely post. Love all the photos. This potato dish looks very interesting the way you present it. Looks very delicious too. Thanks for sharing.
hello
This blog is a goldmine, as beautiful recipes!
Thank you for this wonderful discovery!
thanks for sharing those memories, joumana! and wow–what a unique and awesome recipe. i love potatoes in all forms, and this just so happens to be a particular form that i’ve not tried! the filling looks awesome too.
Thank, thank you! You just gave me a wonderful idea on how to re-invent leftover mashed potatoes at our house! Can’t wait to try and gobble these scrumptious potato globes.
Loved your photos and recipe. Just wished it didn’t come with such a heart-wrenching story. How wretched that there is so much to enjoy about life and we have such a thing as war.
Hi Joumana,
Just got back from Morocco and read your post. I loved it. Have you read Wilfred Thesiger’s book on the Marsh Arabs? I think you might enjoy it. Good effort.
Brian
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[...] Potato Globe wіtһ meat οr bean stuffing (Batata charp) [...]
[...] Potato Globe wіtһ meat οr bean stuffing (Batata charp) [...]
[...] Potato Globe with meat or bean stuffing (Batata charp) [...]
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[...] Potato Globe wіtһ meat οr bean stuffing (Batata charp) [...]
[...] Potato Globe with meat or bean stuffing (Batata charp) [...]
[...] I wrote a post on our family trip to Iraq and the Marsh Lands about a year ago and included a recipe for a traditional Iraqi dish, batata charp. [...]