I left the house today at 2PM; I knew that Elie, owner of the internet café closes shop till 5PM due to lunch and siesta. I got in the car and drove the winding mountain roads, hoping for a lit internet sign somewhere.
I am now sitting in a restaurant in a village in the Chouf; eating a grilled kafta plate and drinking Almaza beer; the only other customer is a Frenchman, sitting across from me with his laptop; I can hear him speaking audibly in French on his cellphone; he seems to have a bit of an attitude; on his table all the Lebanese goodies: a bottle of arak, an array of mezze plates; the waiter told me apologetically that he had no clue how to connect to their network; so I had to ask the French man.
The restaurant is large with a canopied terrace, overlooks the valley and the food is freshly grilled on charcoal. The waiter is so sweet and attentive. When it comes time to pay, he refuses payment in the typical gracious mountain fashion, repeats ” It is on us”, until he finally agrees to bring me the bill.
Last night, we had a get-together with more second and third cousins; picked up some goodies at Souk el-Tayeb.
I grabbed a dozen spinach fatayers (turnovers) at Georgina‘s stand and was tempted by a dish called madfoonet (meaning buried) al-koossa or zucchini; it is a moist pilaf of bulgur with onions and tomatoes with chunks of zucchini and green beans “buried” in it.
Georgina, a warm and effusive lady, told me about her village in Northern Lebanon, the stream nearby, their olive groves and the upcoming fall season: their olive oil will be extracted in the ancient stone press. Told her I would not miss a chance to see this; anyone interested? (it will be in October)
INGREDIENTS:
- 1 cup of coarse bulgur
- 1 cup of water (or broth)
- 1 onion, chopped
- 2 or 3 tomatoes, chopped
- 1 cup of zucchini, chopped
- 1 cup of green beans, cut in one-inch sticks
- olive oil, as needed
METHOD:
- Heat some olive oil and fry the onions for a while; add the tomatoes and cook until the tomatoes have given up some juice.
- Meanwhile, soak the bulgur for 15 minutes and then drain well. Add the bulgur to the skillet, coating the grains with oil and juice for a few minutes.
- Add the zucchini and green beans, previously blanched or steamed and the water; cook the mixture, covered, adding some salt and pepper and a dash of cinnamon and allspice, until the bulgur is cooked well and soft. Serve hot, lukewarm or cold.















26 Comments
I always enjoy your travels and recipes. I would appreciate it if you would tag your scenic photos so I might know where they are taken. For example what is the name of the village in the last snapshot on today’s blog?
Adore the bulgur…sounds really wonderful to mix with zucchini…
@Ann: these photos are taken in the Chouf area; I live in the village of Deir el-Qamar and the last snapshot is a village near the Beit Eddine palace; probably Maasser el-Chouf.
A healthy and delicious pilaf!
Cheers,
Rosa
delicious pilaf using bulgur and zucchinis. Seeing your photos is always pleasing and make me hungry as well.
This is a wonderful side dish, and simple to make, it’s nice and light with a lot of texture, I like how the veggies in the bulgur form a foundation, a sure vegetarian pleaser.
Excellent Joumana.
I love traveling with you Joumana. Your photos and stories are always fascinating. I am so impressed you go to so much trouble to stay connected to all of us! I’m going away in August for a couple weeks and have no intention of even taking my computer. (Although my daughter will have hers….still, I am determined NOT to use it!)
I hope you’ll be there to cover the olive oil extraction. Would love to see photos.
And a great pilaf! Never have made one with veggies.
I too enjoy hearing your stories, and this bulgur pilaf looks fabulous! I have some bulur left after making your tabouleh recipe!
I feel healthier just reading it. Bulgur is one of those things I forget about till summer when I load it with tomatoes and parsley… now beans!
Ah, your photos transport me, blissfully, especially when paired with your beautiful writing! Thank you…
This pilaf looks so colorful, delicious, and nutritious!
I love taking this kind of journey. I love the way you tell the story, casual and relaxed.
The bulgar and pilaf looks delicious.
Keep us posted.
This looks so healthy and tasty – and easy! A perfect quick meal. And the olive oil extraction sounds so exciting! I hope you can go!
What a wonderful place to dine! I’m a firm believer that service impacts the flavor of the food at any restaurant.
The bulgar pilaf looks delicious! and watching the olives get pressed would be an amazing treat.
Good idea – I have the first of those summer vegetables in the garden and may use broad beans as well as or instead of the green beans.
It’s useful to know your customs like having to insist on paying – I would have taken the waiter at his word!
i don’t think i’ve ever had an eatery offer to serve me on the house–wow! meanwhile, this is an interesting and really appealing use for green beans–it looks quite tasty!
Wonderful recipe, and I’d love to see the olive pressing in October. Probably not this year, but maybe in the future. Btw, I just had my warm lemon water. If you do try it, let me know your thoughts. It’s intense, but really not so bad. And the vinegar can be left out.
Joumana…you left us kind of hanging…the Frenchman…did he soften his attitude once you approached him? Yes, call me curious
Bulgar…I love it because not only is it very quick to cook…it’s also tasty and nutritional…win win. Great pilaf dish.
You mentioned October…wow…you are going to be gone for a while…at least you’re enjoying blogging while traveling…good for you because…I, like Barbara, would leave most behind except for my camera and a good ole fashioned pen and paper ;o)
Ciao for now,
Claudia
Store bought Fig Newtons never again. I read today’s post but comments missing. I want to see and hear all about the olive pressing, sounds spectacular!! You are doing an amazing job with the food/travel blog; I feel like I’m there; except when I read about your adventures I get hungry and I can’t get a plate of what you’re showing! Travel channel needs you!!
Be careful on those steep, curvy roads, Joumana! Here is see another wonderful use for my zucchini crop – how delicious.
Beautiful pictures…and the pilaf sure looks yummie and healthy
I just love reading your travel stories, Joumana. This is a simple, healthy and delicious recipe. Beautiful photos. Thanks.
I think bulgur salads are the perfect summer fare…little, no cooking and very filling, healthy, tres delicieuses.
A tasty bulghur zucchini recipe is this!!
MMMMMMMMMMM,…what’s not to loooovvvvvveeeee????
Kisses from Brussels!
@Claudia: you are such a “fine mouche” (clever little thing!); there is more to the story, but I hesitate to print it. I will tell you in person someday!
I would like to hear the story in November if you will be in Dallas! : )
Joumana…how terrible of you to keep me in suspense.
I guess I’ll let you have your secrets for now…well at least until you’re still on vacation ;o)
Just so that you know…my memory is quite sharp when I want it to be…I’ll await the continuing saga with enthusiasm LOL
Ciao bella ;o))
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