I am spending a few days in Erbil (Kurdistan, Iraq) and here are some snapshots of this fascinating city (and region).
This is a quick view of the citadel. This impressive structure contains what used to be around 500 homes and is presumed to be at least 6,000 years old.
The images below show bread being made in a tannour oven; the bread is called naan in Kurdish or tannour in Iraqi. The dough is first stretched on a pillow (kara in Lebanese), then the pillow with the bread are smacked against the walls of the hot oven and the dough immediately starts to bubble up; mere seconds later, it is retrieved with a set of long metal tongs. Delicious and chewy bread.
This is qaymar or clotted cream; it is sold in neighborhood markets and people stop by and purchase it by weight. Really good, especially with that tannour bread and a drizzle of date syrup! (Qaymar used to be sold by ladies who’d carry it in jars on their heads; hope they still do in some corners of Iraq today!). Qaymar is so good because it comes from buffalo milk, with buffaloes raised in the Mosul area; the healthiest milk.
I’d want this as my last meal (I decided after gobbling the bread and qaymar ) ; heavenly.