Hot muggy weather and people are swearing that this summer has been the worst ever; as a result, the streets of Beirut are deserted on the weekend, with Beirutis fleeing en masse to the beach or the mountains for a brief respite.  Well  I am happy I get to drive in the city when it has been vacated.

A chilled soup; the roasted green wheat or freekeh is an huber-nutritious grain, actually  smoked wheat, once very popular in Lebanon until it was replaced by white rice; freekeh is  experiencing a revival due to its delicious smoky taste and its amazing nutritional benefits (lots of iron and minerals).

Ingredients:

• 3 large heirloom tomatoes
• water, with a dash of salt and pepper .
• cut up cucumbers, green peppers, chili pepper
• dash of red pepper paste
• one small onion
• one cup of chopped cilantro
• juice of a lemon
• 1/3 cup of olive oil
• 2 cups of cooked freekeh

METHOD:

1. Peel and cut the tomatoes and place in a blender (one half at a time).
2. Peel and cut the onion and place in the blender; add the cilantro.
3. Add some water (about one and a half cup), lemon juice, olive oil, salt, red pepper paste and process to get a smooth but still a bit chunky texture; taste for seasoning. Add the freekeh, mix and serve.

To cook the freekeh:

1. Soak in water for one hour or longer; drain and make sure no dirt remains or small pebbles. Rinse several times.
2. Bring double the volume of freekeh to a boil with a dash of salt, add the freekeh and let it simmer for about 20 minutes or until the grains are soft. With a spatula, clean off all the froth that will come up on the surface. Serve.

This was one of the dishes on the buffet at Tawlet; it is a rural dish from the North; very nourishing, as purslane is supposed to be the most nutritious green ever (even though it is a weed); the US Department of agriculture had plans to encourage its cultivation in every empty lot in America, because of its very high ratio of Omega-3 and good fiber;  AKA verdolaga (spanish), or mâche, or pourpier (french).

Just dilute some yogurt in water, add a pinch of mashed garlic, some salt and the purslane; that’s it!

• 1 cup of plain yogurt, full or lowfat
• 1 cup of water
• 1 or 2 cloves of garlic, mashed with some salt
• 1 bunch of purslane, previously washed well (can substitute watercress or any other green) and plucked out (remove the thick stems).

METHOD:

1. Mix the yogurt with water and the mashed garlic; add the purslane. Serve or keep refrigerated till serving time.

To read more on the nutritional benefits of purslane, click here.

and here.

This is a recipe from Lebanese chef Marlene Mattar; I tweaked it a bit, for a good cause (my tomatoes were tasteless). Chef Marlene took a Lebanese classic, our tabbouleh salad and converted it to a gazpacho. The result? A soup that will reconcile you with the scorching heat of summer. A cooling beverage of vegetable and grain bliss.

Presented in a classic cosmopolitan glass: Yesterday was the premiere of the ultimate chick flick “Sex and the City2” with a very Disney-like rendition  of their vacation in the United Arab Emirates.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 pound of (preferably) the best organic tomatoes you can find
• 1 medium onion, quartered
• a handful of chopped parsley (about 1/2 cup packed)
• a smaller handful of chopped mint (or a couple tablespoons of dried mint, crumbled)
• 3 Tablespoons of hot red pepper paste (optional, I added it)
• 6 Tablespoons of fresh lemon juice
• 4 Tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 cup of water
• salt, dash of allspice and Aleppo pepper
• 1/2 cup of coarse bulgur #3 or # 4
• Garnishes: diced cucumbers, peppers, minced mint and parsley

METHOD:

1. Peel and quarter the tomatoes; peel and quarter the onion.
2. Chop parsley and mint. Dice the peppers and cucumbers, if using; squeeze the lemon juice.
3. Boil some water and soak the bulgur for 10 minutes or so, until it is soft. Squeeze and set aside.
4. Place all the ingredients in a blender: tomatoes, onion, water, pepper paste, spices, lemon juice, olive oil; purée for one minute.
5. Pour into a bowl; add the bulgur and taste, adjusting seasoning. Garnish with the cucumbers and diced peppers. Serve cold.

First of all, I did not plan on writing a post on mushroom soup; I simply wanted to use a box of mushrooms that my daughter had bought and thrown in the fridge. So while I was doing ten other things, I cooked the mushrooms and made a soup and quite by accident this soup ended up being one of the best and easiest soups I have ever made!

I am not a Williams-Sonoma shopper; I just happened to be there one day and saw this and grabbed it; I am so glad I did! It is wonderful! Add it to your soup or stews and save yourself hours of cooking veal bones and straining stock and messing with the whole operation!

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 box of brown mushrooms (8 ounces)
• 1 large onion
• olive oil or clarified butter, as needed
• 1/4 cup of veal stock concentrate (or beef stock)
• 4 squares of Kiri cheese spread or any cream cheese spread of your choice OR a cup of whipping cream
• 1 cup of milk
• 2 heaping tablespoons of cornstarch
• lots of fresh ground black pepper, salt to taste
• 1 generous cup of white wine (I used Riesling)
• 2 cups of pita bread fried croutons (optional, but nice!)

METHOD:

1. Heat some clarified butter or olive oil; fry the sliced onions and  mushrooms till golden. Put in a large pot, add 5 cups of water, the veal stock concentrate and some salt and pepper. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes or longer till the stock is fragrant with the mushroom flavor.
2. Add the wine to the soup and let is simmer for 15 minutes. Add the cream or Kiri cheese and let it melt slowly and simmer a bit longer.
3. Mix the cornstarch with the milk, add to the simmering soup and stir for a minute or so until the soup thickens a bit.
4. If you wish, use an immersion blender to cream the soup.
5. Taste and serve with fried pita bread croutons.

NOTE: Fried pita croutons will keep for days in a tight plastic container. Use on salads, soups and fatteh.

In the late nineties, Andrea Bocelli came to Lebanon to perform in Beit Eddine, a historic palace in the Shouf mountains. My dad, who never missed a concert with opera in it, invited us to join him.  I was stunned to hear the audience, composed mainly of twenty  year-olds, singing along  in Italian, at the top of their lungs, all of Bocelli’s opera songs!

Here is a simple fish soup to which I added some pizzazz with lobster and shrimp. I just get excited about these two and not so much about plain fish, not you? It is easy too, the fishmonger will graciously kill the lobster for you and  split its carcass in half. So what is left? make the stock!

This soup has tahini in it. So if you hate the taste of tahini, sorry, this is not for you. Tahini in Lebanese cuisine is what crème fraîche represents to the French; it is fundamental! Used both for savory and sweet things.

INGREDIENTS: 6 servings

• 1 lobster (about 2 pounds in weight)
• 1 pound of shrimp (large)
• 1 pound of tomatoes
• 1 cup of diced carrots
• 1 cup of diced celery
• 1 cup of chopped onion
• 1 tablespoon of mashed garlic
• olive oil

Spice mix: 1/2 teaspoon of each of: saffron, cardamom, paprika or cayenne, black pepper; salt, to taste.

• peel of an orange
• tahini, 2 or 3 tablespoons
• 1/2 cup of fresh Seville orange juice (or lemon)
• chopped parsley, for garnish

METHOD:

1. Ask the fishmonger to steam the lobster and separate the flesh from the carcass and cut the carcass in half lengthwise. You want the head to be opened up because it is where the flavor is.
2. Dice carrot, celery and onion. Mash the garlic in a mortar with a dash of salt.
3. Assemble all the dry spices. Juice the oranges or lemons. Boil the tomatoes for 15 seconds and peel and dice them or use a can of diced tomatoes.
4. Peel the shrimps: keep the peels aside to use for the stock and leave the shrimps in a bowl of cold water in the fridge.
5. Peel the orange and set the peel aside.
6. Heat a bit of olive oil in a large pan. Add the carrots, onion and celery and cook gently for about 10 minutes. Add the lobster carcass, making sure the head is facing the oil and vegetable mixture. Fry the lobster carcass for a few minutes until the fragrance is wafting out of the pan. Add the shrimp peels and about 8 cups of water. Bring to a simmer and let it bubble up gently for about 30 minutes.

Take a break!

NOTE: Don’t forget to stir the tahini before pouring, to  mix the oil and the paste thoroughly.

1. Strain the stock through a sieve into a bowl. Heat the pan with a tablespoon of olive oil and add the diced tomatoes and all the  dry spices. Fry for 3 minutes until fragrant. Cover with the lobster and shrimp stock, add the orange peel, garlic and cover. Simmer gently for 15 minutes.
2. Uncover the pan. Add the orange juice and tahini (you can also mix the two well beforehand). Then, use an immersion blender (or a regular blender) to puree the sauce until it looks smooth and creamy.
3. Add the raw shrimps to the stock and let them cook in it for about 5 minutes till they turn pink.
4. Add the cooked lobster, previously cut in smaller pieces.
5. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

Source: The Arab Table, by May S. Bsisu; her recipe is for an actual fish soup (snapper or cod); she does not make a fish stock, uses boiling water and spices and cooks the fish in it.

This soup is easy to make and a time-saver on busy nights.

INGREDIENTS: 4 servings

• 1 1/2 pounds of tomatoes or a can of good Italian  tomatoes
• 1 onion, 1 large carrot, 2 sticks of celery
• 1 tablespoon of dried mint
• 1 quart of chicken stock (or any stock)
• a handful of medium-grained rice (optional)
• butter as needed (or olive oil)
• salt, white pepper
• 3 or more garlic cloves, mashed in a mortar
• 1/2 cup of cream or a few pieces of  creamy cheese like Vache qui rit (optional)
• chives or fresh herbs for garnish

For the meringue: (if using)

• 2 large egg whites
• a pinch of salt
• a tablespoon of sugar

METHOD:

1. Heat the oil or butter in a pan. Add the onion, carrot and celery and fry slowly till soft, about 20 minutes.
2. Add the tomatoes, peeled and cut up or a can of tomatoes. Add the chicken stock and rice if using.. Simmer 30 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning.
3. Puree in a blender; add the crumbled mint at the end.

To make the meringue:

1. Whip the egg whites in a mixer till almost stiff with a pinch of salt. Add the sugar while beating to stiff and shiny peaks.
2. Stop the mixer. Place the egg whites in a pastry bag fitted with a large round tip (optional), or it can be done with a small spoon.
3. Take a piece of parchment paper, cut it into a 8 inch round and grease it with shortening. Place a heart-shaped cookie cutter on the paper. Squeeze the meringue with the pastry bag or using a spoon place some meringue to fill the cookie cutter shape. Remove the cookie cutter. Place as many meringue shapes as needed.
4. Take a saucepan and fill it with water (about 4 inches), bring the water to a simmer.
5. Place the paper with the meringues over the surface of the water and slide the meringues into the simmering water. Poach the meringues for 45 seconds. Remove with a slotted spoon. Either place directly on the soup or on a paper towel and keep in the fridge for up to one day till needed. You can use leftover meringue to garnish puddings or custards as well.

Source for the meringue instructions: Roland Mesnier, Dessert University.

One of my pet peeves is this: I go out to eat at a “nice” restaurant, I order soup, I taste the soup, it tastes CANNED. AAAAh!!!! Am I nuts or do other people feel as annoyed as I do?

Soup is so important! I mean, anybody can throw a piece of meat on a grill and serve it with some veggies! Big deal! The other day, I was invited at a seafood place. O.K. I order lobster bisque and not only did it taste canned but it had so much cream in it, I could barely swallow it.

My point is this: A good soup takes times. The broth needs to be homemade. That’s why when I take the time to make this homey Lebanese soup, it is consumed within the hour; yet it takes me 2 days to make it.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 nice lamb shanks
• 4 onions
• 1 large can of Italian tomatoes or Pomi or 1 1/2 pounds of tomatoes
• 3 or 4 large carrots, peeled and sliced thick
• 3 or 4 garlic cloves
• spices for the broth: thyme, sprig of parsley, a few cloves of garlic, some cloves, some peppercorns, a bay leaf.
• 1 1/2 cups of white beans or any type of bean that you like.

METHOD:

1. Make the lamb stock: Brown the shanks in a little oil on all sides. Add at least 6 cups of water to the pot and one onion and all the spices.
2. Bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for at least one hour. Cook until the lamb falls off the bone. Cool and when it has been refrigerated for a while, take off any fat that has congealed on the surface.
3. Chop the onions; in a skillet, heat a few tablespoons of olive oil; add the onions, fry till golden; add the tomatoes and cook for 20 minutes. Cool and puree in a blender. Set aside.
4. Reheat the lamb stock, remove the shanks and set aside. Add the beans to the stock and simmer, adding more water; add the carrots and garlic cloves,  simmer  till the beans are cooked. Add the tomato sauce, cook 20 minutes longer.
5. Remove all the fat and membranes from the shanks, keeping the meat pieces which will fall off the bone easily. Add to the soup.
6. Serve hot, garnish with some parsley.

Today, I decided to simply make soup.  I had already boiled a chicken yesterday and had some good stock to spare. Let’s check the pantry…perfect! A can of artichoke hearts. Ready, set, go!

INGREDIENTS:

• 8  cups of chicken stock
• 1 can of artichoke bottoms or hearts  (fresh, frozen, canned)
• 3 cloves of garlic, mashed with a pinch of salt
• 1/2 cup of labneh
• seasonings consisting of salt, white pepper, a dash of grated nutmeg.
• 1 large baked potato (or use a small bag of  dried potato flakes), peeled and cut in squares.
• For garnish: pita bread, brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with sumac and toasted.

METHOD:

1. Place the chicken stock,  artichoke bottoms or hearts and potato  in a pan and heat to boiling until the potato is cooked.
2. Puree the mixture in a blender and return to the pan. Add the potato flakes if using instead of the potato.
3. Season and taste to adjust. Brush the pita with some olive oil, sprinkle some sumac powder and toast in the oven.
4. Serve the soup with the pita crisps and a dollop of labneh.

NOTE: You can add the labneh when pureeing the soup.

TO MAKE LABNEH:

• Take a coffee filter and set it on a sieve over a small bowl. Place some yoghurt on the filter (or you can use a paper towel or a piece of cotton calico).
• Let the yoghurt drain itself of its whey. You can have labneh in a few hours or let it sit overnight for better results.
• Use the labneh in the soup and also as a dip with pita and some olives.

artichoke soup

I am participating in a soup-game from En Direct d’Athènes.en-direct-dathenes.over-blog.fr

I got this recipe from my cousin Nicole who lives in Paris; I saw her in Beirut for Christmas lunch but on the spur of the moment gave her gift  to my aunt Claire instead, so my aunt got two gifts and Nicole got none from me. So I feel bad;  I will send her something from Texas, maybe a belt buckle or some Pecan Pralines

This recipe is quick and easy. Nicole is a nurse and does not have time to cook.  For each zucchini you need one wedge of cheese. Cook the zucchini in some chicken bouillon, add the cheese wedges and whirl in the blender. It will take 5 minutes of your time and the soup tastes like a million dollars.

Get some small zucchini;  in Texas, they are found at Mexican groceries. These resemble the Lebanese ones, if not in taste at least in looks. Get some Vache qui rit, or any processed cheese sold in wedges in a cardboard box.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 quart of chicken stock
• 6 zucchini
• 6 wedges of cheese
• 1/2 cup of chopped leeks (optional)
• 2 tablespoons of butter or olive oil

METHOD:

1. Clean and slice the zucchinis
2. Heat the butter or oil and add the zucchinis; if using leeks, add them too. Fry for a few minutes.
3. Heat the stock, add the vegetables and cook for 10 minutes.
4. Pour the mixture in a blender, add the cheese wedges and puree for a minute.
5. Serve hot.

The above are zucchini (called koossa) from our orchard in Deir el-Kamar; in the summer, we eat them every day, lunch and dinner, just barely boiled; they are so  sweet!  Wonderful. I wish I could send you all a basket!

Chicken soup in Lebanese cuisine could not be simpler. It is simply a chicken cooked in water, to which some cinnamon and a squeeze of lemon is added, along with a handful of vermicelli the last 3 minutes of cooking. I usually wait to have a bunch of chicken parts leftover, throw the bunch in the pot and cook the mixture for a couple of hours on low heat. Wonderful to have on hand for those grey days when the weather makes you want to crawl back into bed watching reruns of The Rockford Files.

INGREDIENTS: 6 servings

• 1 chicken or chicken parts, neck, wings,  for a total of 3 pounds.
• 1 onion, 1 carrot, a bay leaf, a few sprigs of parsley, a few cloves of garlic, a stick of cinnamon
• 2 lemons, quartered
• 1/2 cup of vermicelli noodles (can be substituted for medium-grain rice)
• Salt, pepper, cinnamon, to taste

METHOD:

1. Place the chicken in a pot and brown gently on medium heat until brown all over (this step is optional)
2. Add the cold water and the spices as well as the onion, carrot and celery stick. Cover and bring to a boil.
3. Simmer gently for at least one hour. Cool and strain the broth. Place the broth in the fridge so that the fat will congeal on the surface and can be removed easily a few hours later or the next day.
4. Take the chicken and break the meat in little pieces. Place in a bowl and cover.
5. When ready to serve, heat the broth, add the vermicelli and bring to a boil and boil gently 3 minutes.
6. Add the chicken pieces and heat for a couple of minutes. Sprinkle the soup with some parsley and serve with quartered lemons (to be squeezed in the soup) and some cinnamon (to be sprinkled on the soup).