Coffee: White or black

 

For those of you who dread the jolt that caffeine-laden Turkish coffee inflicts, there is  white coffee. White coffee is offered at get-togethers in Lebanon and it is simply boiled water with a few drops of orange blossom water (to taste) and sugar (optional).

In Lebanon there are a few major Turkish coffee providers (offered with or without cardamom) but I found only one with decaffeinated Turkish coffee. The option is to get your favorite decaf beans and grind them into a powder.

Incidentally, I discovered a great Turkish coffee sold online and in a coffee shop in California, made from organically grown beans in Ethiopia.  The name if this coffee is black goat and when I asked the coffee shop owner about the origin of the name, here is what she said: “Here’s the story behind our “Black Goat”..  When we first did our research about the history of coffee, we found out that it all originated with an Ethiopian goat herder who noticed that his goats were especially alert and active after grazing on a type of cherry bush. Later on, he reported his findings to the local monastery where the monks began experimenting with the beans and made a drink out of it so they can stay alert for the evening prayers. That’s when we started putting some names down for consideration and “Black Goat” was the perfect one.”

The method for making Turkish coffee is simple. You need to get a special pot (called rakweh), measure the volume of water equal to the volume of your cup or cups. Bring the water to a boil (sweeten it if you like) and drop a heaping teaspoon of coffee (per cup) into the water; stir and watch carefully; the coffee will froth and try to boil over. Remove the pot from the heat as soon as it does, scrape a bit of froth and deposit into each cup; return to heat and bring it to a boil two more times, stirring the pot each time it does. Set the pot aside a few minutes to let the coffee settle to the bottom and pour into each cup.

 

 

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Jam tarts (Mabroucheh)

In the summer, when apricots are in season, most everybody in the villages makes apricot jam (partially cooked in the sun). The apricot season is very short and the apricots are extremely fragrant during that time. A tart is made with the apricot jam called mabroucheh in which the top layer of dough is grated onto the jam. Feel free to use that technique, but I would recommend freezing the dough for 15 minutes prior to get it hard enough to grate on a box grater (big holes).

INGREDIENTS:

  • 2 cups of flour
  • dash of salt
  • 1 tsp of baking powder
  • 1 tbsp of dry milk powder (optional)
  • 1 egg
  • 3 tbsp of sugar
  • rind of a lemon (2 tsp)
  • 2 or 3 tbsp of whipping cream or sour cream or labneh or whole milk
  • 1/2 cup of butter cut into small dice (4 ounces or 125 g.)
  • 1 cup of apricot jam or more as needed
METHOD:
  1. Place the flour, salt and baking powder in the bowl of a food processor. Mix for a few seconds to combine and aerate the mixture; add the cut-up butter and mix a few more seconds until the dough looks sandy. Add the egg and cream and lemon rind and mix till the dough becomes compact and leaves the sides of the bowl. Transfer to a large piece of plastic wrap or wax paper and refrigerate for one hour or longer.
  2. Grease and flour tartlet pans; take one tablespoon of dough at a time and flatten with the palm of your hands, pressing it onto the tartlet pan to fit the bottom and the sides. Keep one third of the dough to use as bands on top of the jam. Prick the dough with a fork and refrigerate for 30 minutes or longer; spoon some jam onto the tartlets. Roll out the remaining dough and cut into long shreds, cutting the shreds to fit the tartlets sideways. Pat them onto the tartlets. 
  3. Bake in a preheated 350F oven for 15 minutes or until the tartlets are golden and crispy. Cool and serve.
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Bulgur and cabbage pilaf (Safsouf)

 

 Today a man was offering homemade products from his village: Carob molasses, orange and rose water, tomato paste, olives, olive oil etc. When I asked him “How much” he replied “I will give it to you for free, my mother made these”. So I offered him what I thought was a great price for the lot, except I turned down his olive oil since we get our own. He started rattling off the sad story of his sister who needed an operation and how her disease got started and how it was getting worse and worse and how much each shot to save her  was going to cost him (medicine straight from France); I said I was very sorry about his sister, but had no more money to offer him. His sister’s condition got more urgent by the minute and I was told that he did not want any money for anything, it was all free, except I had to pay for the olive oil (triple what I was offering). He added that he had a good job, naming the firm he was working for, but thank God they had a small plot of land and could produce these and help their sister, etc etc. 

Exhausting.

Plain and rustic, this dish is from rural areas in Lebanon; it is thought to have been the precursor to tabbouleh, since it is a bulgur pilaf scooped up in a cabbage leaf. It contains chopped nuts, onions, bulgur and cabbage. It lends itself to some  sprucing up with spices or a dash of  pomegranate molasses. 

This version is adapted from a recipe transcribed by Chef Ramzi  in his Culinary Heritage of Lebanon. It is prepared in the Hermel region.

INGREDIENTS: 6 to 8 servings

  • 1 small cabbage (the equivalent of 3 cups shredded)
  • 2 cups of chopped walnuts (can substitute almonds or pecans or pine nuts)
  • 2 cups of chopped onions
  • 2 cups of  bulgur (can use coarse as well, #2 is best)
  • 1 tbsp of chili paste
  • 1/2 cup of olive oil (or more as needed)
  • 1 tsp of cumin
  • 1 tbsp of pomegranate molasses (optional)
METHOD:
  1. Cook the cabbage in several cups of boiling water or steam till tender; drain and shred finely.
  2. Brown the onions in olive oil till almost caramelized. Wash the bulgur under running tap water and cover with hot water for 30 minutes. Drain. Add to the skillet with the onions and cabbage. Add the nuts and chili paste and other spices if desired (salt, pepper, cumin, pomegranate molasses). Stir-fry in olive oil for a few minutes and serve at room temperature or warm as desired. You can serve with additional cabbage leaves to scoop the bulgur pilaf. 
NOTE: If you are using coarse bulgur, soak it in boiling water.
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