The Chouf mountains are the one area of Lebanon that I missed the most as an expat; I missed the smell of the parasol pines and the constant creaking noise of the crickets, so relentless that we would stop hearing it.

We stopped by the side of the road to buy some prickly pears and there was one car parked ahead of us: a BMW with a couple inside; out comes a young woman in a sleeveless, bustier  skintight dress and spiked heels; beautiful and bronzed throughout; well this sight would have drawn stares and whistles  in my time: not anymore!

We ate this salad on a regular basis in Beirut and it was called salade russe (russian salad); it was served in a carved tomato, and consisted of a medley of  diced vegetables (peas, carrots, potatoes and beets), smothered in mayo.

Why was it called russian salad? did it truly come from the Russian cuisine? Was it brought to Lebanon by the Russian emigrés who fled the Soviet dictatorship in the 20s and that we called ” The White Russians”? I have no idea.

My version adds shrimp to the mix and a garlicky homemade mayonnaise, with a bit of curry.

INGREDIENTS:

• 4 tomatoes, medium sized
• 1/4 pound of shrimp
• 1/4 cup of chopped parsley (can use dill instead)
• 2 cups of diced carrots & peas
• one cup of homemade mayonnaise (recipe follows)

METHOD:

1. Carve the tomatoes with a serrated knife and a spoon and reserve the flesh for another purpose.
2. Lightly salt the tomato shells and set aside.
3. Prepare the mayonnaise  by placing some garlic cloves (about 3) in a blender, a dash of salt and a teaspoon of lemon juice. Whirl the blender and add to it one egg white. Start whirling the blender for one minute until the mixture is creamy white. Add one cup of oil in a thin stream, very slowly, until the mixture is thickened and fluffy; add one more tablespoon of lemon juice and a dash of curry.
4. Cook the vegetables if frozen. Set aside. Fry the shrimps in a bit of oil and add to the vegetables; add the parsley or dill and some mayonnaise. Taste and adjust seasoning. Fill the tomato cups and serve.

Whenever I meet Lebanese expats I hear them  fondly  mention the yakhneh (stew) of their mother or grandmother. There is a huge portion of the Lebanese culinary repertoire dedicated to these yakhneh, encompassing every vegetable under  the sun and almost always with the same basic  formula: a stock made of lamb shanks (or shoulder cuts), a final flavoring of a garlic and cilantro pesto or mint pesto  and rice as an accompaniment to the stew. We had them several times a week at  home, with different vegetables. Unlike stews in the West which comprise a medley of vegetables, stews in Lebanese cuisine showcase one vegetable, such as spinach yakhneh, or green bean yakhneh, or okra or bean or zucchini, the list endless.

This one with peas and carrots is  an exception to the rule because both are given importance and the final addition of a cilantro pesto the last minute of cooking gives this dish a fantastic flavor. It has been a favorite with my kids throughout their childhood. As usual with Lebanese meals it takes several steps  and can be prepared in advance and frozen to be enjoyed later. I usually make a large quantity and freeze half of it.

Steps for making the stew or yakhneh:

1. Making the stock with lamb shanks
2. Adding the vegetable (s)
3. Making the pesto (aliyyeh)
4. Make the rice

Making the stock: The day before.

Ingredients: This quantity will yield 8 servings

• 3 lamb shanks as well as some lamb bones if available
• Spices: 1 teaspoon of  salt, pepper, 2 teaspoons of cinnamon, 2 teaspoons of allspice
• A bay leaf, one large onion, a few sprigs of parsley.

Method:

1. Wash and dry the shanks and sprinkle with all the spices.
2. Heat a large soup pot and brown the shanks on all sides, about 15 minutes.
3. Add enough water to cover the shanks and to reach within two inches of the top  of the pot.
4. Throw in a bay leaf, an onion, a few sprigs of parsley and cover the pot. Bring to a boil and then lower the heat and simmer gently for at least one hour  until the shanks are falling off the bone. If you see froth  at the beginning of cooking, remove it with a spatula.
5. Remove the shanks and place on a large plate. Remove and discard  the skin, filaments and  bones. Gently break apart large meat  pieces and place them in a plate to be added to the stew later. Cover the plate.
6. Strain the stock into a large bowl with a cover and place the bowl in the fridge for a few hours until the fat has congealed on the surface and can be removed.
7. Remove the fat and discard.

Making the stew:

Ingredients:

• 1 pound bag of frozen sweet peas (or fresh peas)
• 1 pound bag of carrots, peeled and chopped in small pieces
• 3 tablespoons of tomato paste

Method:

1. Heat the lamb stock to the boiling point. Add the tomato pasta and stir a bit to dilute.
2. Add the carrots and cook in the stock until they are done, about 20 minutes or more.
3. Add the peas and cook a few minutes longer.
4. Add the pieces of lamb shanks and heat the stew for a couple of minutes. Cool.

Making the cilantro pesto:

Ingredients:

• 1 bunch of fresh cilantro, washed, dried, leaves plucked and chopped
• 10 cloves of garlic, mashed in a mortar with a pinch of salt

Method:

1. Heat the olive oil or clarified butter in a small skillet.
2. Add the cilantro and garlic to the skillet and stir for 1 minute until both become a compact mass.
3. When the fragrance reaches your nostrils, about 30 seconds later, turn off the heat and swirl into the stew. You can start with half the quantity if your are squeamish about too much garlic or throw in the whole paste. It freezes well in a small container, covered with olive oil.

Making the rice with vermicelli:

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 cups of Basmati rice
• 1/2 cup of vermicelli noodles
• 2 cups of water
• 2 tablespoons of clarified butter
• salt, to taste

Method:

1. Rinse the rice and place in a bowl with water to cover and a pinch of salt. Let it soak for 30 minutes or longer. Change the water 2 or 3 times.
2. Heat the butter in a pot and add the vermicelli noodles. Stirring frequently, let the noodles take on a nice brown color. Now, drain the rice and add it to the pot, stirring the grains until they get coated with butter.
3. Add the water with a pinch of salt and bring to a boil.
4. Cover the pot and cook on low heat  for 15 minutes until the rice is tender. Fluff it up and serve with the stew.

NOTE:

A lot of people like to add tomatoes or tomato paste to this stew. It is usually added alongside the carrots. I read a recipe in Anissa Helou’s book Lebanese Cuisine in which she foregoes the cilantro pesto and adds instead the peel of an orange and the peel of a lemon (sort of like the seasoning for osso bucco) which sounds delicious too!